Cleaning a bath or shower stall is unpleasant work that must be done too often. Because such stalls are fairly compact, painful bumps and bruises can happen through this work. Then, after all the cleaning and wiping is done, the grout, plastic, and metal-parts of the stall can still become permanently spotted or soiled.
This condition can be avoided completely by installing a portable plastic-curtain liner within the stall to keep its walls and accessories sparkling clean all the time, even under heavy use by it occupants. It's time to say goodbye to a gritty grimy stall, forever.
Here's how. First, make a rectangular rod-frame from white plastic pipe and four T's, four rubber crutch tips, and two white adjustable curtain rods, no cementing necessary. (See the directions for making and installing it below the materials list.) Install this frame within the stall at a height just under the showerhead pipe, and behind the top frame of the stall's entry door, if one exists. The rods will be about 1-inch or less from the walls and 73-inches above the stall-floor. Then, hang 2-3 overlapping shower curtains from plastic hooks around the frame. Let a portion of the curtain behind the entrance door or portal to slide open and shut for easy entry and exit. If no door exists, set the sliding portion over the main opening as the portal. The initial cost to make this laborsaving device from scratch is about $60. However, it can be done for less with prudent shopping and used parts.
Materials needed for a 29x48" stall
- six-feet of ¾-inch white plastic pipe; $0.75 foot
- four ¾-inch white plastic T's; $0.50 each
- four ¾-inch light-colored rubber crutch tips; $0.50 each
- four ¾x1-inch metal washers; $0.12 each
- two twist-adjustable white bathtub shower curtain rods; $12 each
- 36 shower-curtain hooks (plastic); $4 box/12
- three 72-inch tall household shower curtains; $5 each
Note: to reduce the frame's cost, use two precisely measured sections of plastic pipe instead of the curtain rods.
Standard-sized shower stalls range from about 29-inches square to 30x48-inches rectangular or larger. Bath-shower combinations range from 29x60-inches to larger. Before cutting the frame's two end-rods for the narrow sides of the stall with a fine saw, measure each distance separately, allowing space for two transversely attached T's on each end of each rod as follows.
1. Cut two plastic-pipe end-rods to 25±1/4-inches in length. Scrape the rough ends smooth.
2. Insert the ends of these two rods into the side ports of the four T's (no cement).
3. Insert a crutch tip into one end of each T on each rod, letting the tips face the same direction. You now have the two completed end-rods with the T-assemblies attached.
4. Insert a 1-inch washer into each of the four remaining open ends of the four T-assemblies. These washers give a solid base for the ends of the adjustable curtain rods to push against while setting their lengths and tensions during the installation.
5. Extend both curtain rods to almost the full lengths needed to make the frame. Install the frame at the desired height by inserting the opposite ends of one curtain rod into two of the washer-filled T-assemblies (i.e., into one opening on each of the two end-rods) at the opposite ends of the stall. Then adjust the tension tight enough to hold the unfinished frame up on its own until the other curtain rod is installed. Install the second curtain rod the same way in the two remaining openings on the other side of the end-rods. Establish enough tension in both curtain rods to hold the frame in place while the curtains are being hung.
6. Install the curtain hooks onto the rods around all four walls.
7. Hang the curtains by overlapping them away from the shower spray or any potential splattering. Overlap them by 10 to 16-inches around the walls depending on the size of the stall. Let the overlap on the sliding portion at the entrance curtain be about 10-inches when closed by having an extra unused hook hanging there for the sliding end of that curtain. The bottoms of the curtains will almost touch the floor. If not, raise or lower the frame slightly by sliding it into a new position. The crutch tips on the outer ends of the frame will protect the walls at each end of the stall.
8. Finally, tighten both curtain rods further to hold the frame and its curtains firmly in place.
The liner now covers the entire inner perimeter of the stall from the floor up to the top of the curtains. While bathing or showering, manually adjust the faucets and other controls by letting the curtain wrap around them like thin hot-pads in your hands. That is, to keep these parts clean and protected, one need not cut holes in the curtains to use them. Steam and mist from hot water does not adversely affect the cleanliness of the stall; it evaporates cleanly. Also, the floor of the stall is self-cleaning most of the time. Additionally, to prevent buildup on the curtains themselves, use soft soaps, and minimize the force of the shower spray and subsequent splattering.
Advantages of the frame and liner
- The stall's walls and metal/glass accessories stay clean and spotless all the time
- After a bath or shower, a squeegee or wipe-down rag is not needed
- The perimeter-shaped liner gives adequate room to bathe or shower comfortably
- The curtains themselves are machine washable, or easily replaced as desired
- A rack can be hung from the showerhead pipe to hold soaps, shampoos, brushes etc
- The overall appearance of the frame and liner is neat and practical
- The frame is portable, not permanently fixed to the walls with glue or screws
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